There is Power (and Finesse) in a Union: Rioja Cooperatives in Historical Context
Sunday, May 11th, 2008
Manuel Ruiz, winemaker at Bodegas y Viñedos Labastida. Photo: John Barkely
Modern Rioja owes much of its early development to the winemakers of Bordeaux, who came to Rioja in search of wine to meet the demand of their markets after their own vineyards were decimated by Phylloxera in the 19th century. But in many ways Rioja is more like Burgundy. For one, like the Côte d’Or Rioja’s terroir is heterogeneous and can change rapidly from one vineyard plot to the next. Also like Burgundy, Rioja is composed of small vineyard plots owned by myriad grape growers, a fragmentation that has made it difficult for large bodegas to own significant contiguous landholdings. As a result, most bodegas buy in grapes from many sources. To give you an idea, there are around 500 wineries in Rioja and about 20,000 viticulturalists.
