High Bang to Buck Ratio Watch: Marqués de Tomares Crianza 2005
Cold and overcast November days in the Northeast invariably induce cravings for robust meat dishes and, for reasons I cannot fully explain, today that craving is for venison. A couple of years ago, Chanterelle chef David Waltuck served roasted loin of venison with three purees (chestnut, parnsip, and sweet potato), and that is exactly what I have in mind (and what I would make for dinner tonight if I didn’t have to work).
Classic Rioja, which is to say, Rioja aged exclusively in American oak and possessing that beguiling aromatic trio of cigar box, cherries, and dill, is venison’s perfect foil, and the wine I have in mind today that fits that profile perfectly is one that retails for less than $15: Marqués de Tomares Crianza 2005 from the bodega formally known as Unión de Viticultores Riojanos in the town of Funemayor in Rioja Alta.
Made from 90% Tempranillo with 7% Mazuelo and 3% Graciano, with a year in American oak barrels, this particular Tomares Crianza from the warm ‘05 vintage (tasted two weeks ago), was not only highly quaffable and pleasantly fruity but also possessed as much elegance and finesse as one would expect from a Reserva.
Given its food pairing facility with any number of late fall and early winter dishes, the wine’s modest price tag argues in favor of a case purchase with reservation, a cold-weather, go-to stash to warm palate and belly on many a chilly evening to come.
Marqués de Tomares 2005 Crianza is $14.99/bottle at PJ Wine in New York City.