Curious structures in and around Paula’s ‘place,’ Part Two: The mystery of the Ganimede
But it was another structure, one called Ganimede, that got my attention on my last visit to Elvillar. Although it sort of sounds like the name of a prehistoric megalith, Ganimede is rather the brand name of a state-of-the-art stainless steel fermentation tank, one that harnesses the gradual build-up of CO2 accruing naturally during the fermentation process to keep the fermenting juice evenly and continually in contact with its floating ‘cap’ of skins.
Punching the cap, or pumping over, is a key step in vinifying quality red wine. It’s a little like stirring french press coffee into a froth shortly after adding boiling water: the more integrated the components, the richer and more balanced the final product.
A gas pressure and release fermenter like the Ganimede does just that: it collects gas from the churning must and periodically releases collected CO2 upwards to create an internal geyser effect. (Click here to read an informative Wine Business Monthly article about various methods of automated cap management.)
Lar de Paula uses its four Gaminede fermenters only for its top wines, but still, each of the bodega’s labels shows a purity of ripe red fruit that just screams Rioja Alavesa, a subzone where Tempranillo rules, wines show tons of expression yound, and the abundant limestone soils, old vines, and south-facing vineyards yield wines with gobs of raspberries and strawberries.
I particulalry like the winery’s 2005 Crianza (around $14 retail in the U.S.), as well as its 2004 Reserva (around $20). Terrific values that I recommend without reservation.
Although I thought Lar de Paula’s 2006 4 Besos and 2004 ‘Cepas Viejas,’ or Old Vines, were aromatically alluring, I found both wines a bit too brawny and unsubtle on the palate, at least at this point in their evolution. I was, however, pleasantly surprised by the complexity of Lar de Paula’s highest-end bruiser, Merus.4 2005 (around $60). It has that licorice, delicate spicy, minerally, slately character that low-yield, old Tempranillo vines can give and I’m beginning to enjoy quite a lot.
There are plenty of folks I know who would say I’m crazy for digging so heavily on a wine with 14.5% alcohol and such intense concentration, but I must admit that I found the wine to be surprisingly well balanced, so much so that I hardly noticed the alcohol at all.
Winemaker José Meruelo also extended the extraordinarily generous gesture of handing each of us a bottle of the ‘05 Merus.4. It was one of only three wines I tucked carefully into my suitcase when I returned to the U.S.
One last comment. The winery is considering changing its present label, which makes prominent use of the exclamation mark (see a photo of our tasting line-up, above).
They also showed us an alternate design (left). As soon as we saw the labels side-by-side, we were all instantly in agreement.
Brooklyn wineshop owner Jeff Patten, was the first to say what we all were thinking.
“It’s a no brainer,” he said. “Go with the new design.”
What do you think?