Panel Tasting Report: Tertiary Aromas and the Fifth Flavor
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Last week, Vibrant Rioja organized a trade and media panel tasting called TERTIARY AROMAS & THE FIFTH FLAVOR, an informal and interactive inquiry into the flavor harmonies of Rioja wines beginning to show evidence of tertiary aromas—those leathery, earthy, autumnal, and seductively subtle aromas deriving from barrel and bottle-aging—and foods with appreciable levels of savory ‘Umami’ flavor, often referred to as the ‘Fifth Flavor.’
Among the pairings we tasted (with food pairings in italics):
- Bodegas Bréton Criadores Loriñon Blanco 2006 ($15): Boquerones en vinagre (white anchovies, vinegar, parsley and garlic)
- Marques de Murrieta Capellanía Viura 2004 ($26) : Esparragos Blancos con Romesco
- R. Lopez de Heredia Viña Tondonia Rose Gran Reserva 1998 ($30): Jamón Ibérico
- Castillo Labastida Reserva 2001 ($20): Trigal Aged Manchego, Gourmino Cave Aged Gruyere and Tomme Crayeuse
- Tobía Graciano 2007 ($22): Italian tuna with chick peas, artichoke, olives, tomato, haricot vert, and arugula.
- La Rioja Alta Viña Alberdi Reserva 2002 ($18): Paella de Carne (pork, chicken, duck, chorizo, rice and mushroom soffrito)
- Marqués de Tomares Reserva 2001 ($45) : Grilled Marinated Mushrooms (mushrooms, garlic and olive oil)
A few observations:
- Not surprisingly, both Marqués de Tomares Reserva 2001 (with grilled mushrooms) and La Rioja Alta Viña Alberdi Reserva 2002 (with paella) hit their marks hand in glove.
- One lovely surprise, predicted by my colleague Jill Paradiso who helped put the pairings together while I was away in Napa, was how well Tobía Graciano 2007—a not-so-tertiary wine super-high in fruit, acidity, and alcohol and made from a grape not usually showcased as a single varietal wine—did with its match, a Sicilian tuna salad with artichokes, chickpeas and arugula.
- The Loriñon Blanco 2006, with only 6 months in American oak, can’t really be said to have much in the way of tertiary aromas either; we poured this wine in order to contrast it against Murrieta’s Capellanía 2004, which stylistically speaking falls somewhere between the Loriñon and the benchmark classic white Rioja producer López de Heredia Viña Tondonia.
- Although the the Loriñon Blanco did not do well with the white anchovy pairing, returning to the wine with a small piece of Cave Aged Gruyere yielded astonishing match.